Sometimes watching gardeners wield a spade makes you believe you are witnessing an execution. Especially if the spade blade is thrust into the soil too close to the plant.
This is not a beheading. You are rather seeing important limbs, the source of the plants’ lifeblood, chopped off.
These are the roots.
An old practice of heaping up the soil into a mini mountain edging the outline of the garden bed is done every week is responsible for this too.
Someone once likened the procedure to having your toes chopped off.
Rather keep the garden bed neat by installing a permanent edging such as railway sleepers or rock-hard sneeze wood poles scavenged from farmers replacing their fence uprights with creosote posts.
Forking or digging around a plant to remove weeds or even out the soil is as fatal to a plants’ growth and health.
Roots are the important underground workers of the plant.
As they are the unseen, their purpose is often dismissed or ignored.
They are essential to a plant’s health and survival.
Their function is to anchor the plant in the soil and keep it stable facing upward towards the sunlight so it can produce food through photosynthesis.
Roots store food in their roots, absorb water and nutrients from the soil.
How you water the garden is important too.
It might seem you are doing a good job of watering when you splash the greenery with the hose or irrigation system.
Yes, you are cooling down the plant but if done at the wrong time of the day, water droplets on leaves create the effect of a magnifying glass. The leaves get burnt instead.
And, plants absorb water through their roots not their leaves.
So, it’s best to water the plants at root level. Water is transported from the soil through the roots into the plant in a process called transpiration.
Another positive factor is that this way of watering the soil surrounding the plant prevents water from being wasted. It also prevents fungal disease.
Deep watering of the roots thus encourages the growth of a strong deep root system helping it become more resilient and drought resistant.
Strong roots anchor the plant in the soil, preventing it from falling over in the wind and allowing it to grow upright and access sunlight effectively so it can make food through photosynthesis.
Roots absorb nutrients from the soil which is important for its metabolic processes. The roots provide storage for this food too.
Roots also hold the particles of soil together, reducing the risk of soil erosion.
Examples always have a way of making a message come to life. In this case, the life of a rose and the importance of healthy roots as confirmed by horticulturist Walmar Taschner, of Ludwig’s Roses.
Taschner explained the importance of maintaining root life when growing roses.
How important are the roots of roses in ensuring a healthy rose bush?
The root system is the lifeline of a rose bush. Healthy roots anchor the plant, absorb water and nutrients and store energy that allows the plant to produce strong canes, lush foliage and abundant blooms.
If the roots are weak or diseased, the entire plant suffers even if the top growth looks fine at first. Essentially, good root health equals a vigorous, long lived rose.
The soil needs to be loose and aerated for the roots to grow optimally.
How do you take care of the roots of roses?
Soil preparation: Roses prefer well-draining, loamy soil enriched with organic matter. Roots need oxygen, so heavy compacted soils suffocate them.
Watering: Deep infrequent watering encourages roots to grow downwards, making them more drought resistant. Shallow, frequent watering promotes weak surface roots.
Mulching: A five-to-seven-centimetre mulch layer keeps the root zone cool, retains moisture and improves soil over time.
Fertilising: Using balanced, slow-release fertilisers. Ludwig’s Vigolonger once a season and Vigorosa every second month.
How do rose roots grow?
Rose roots are fibrous and branching, spreading outward and downward.
Unlike trees that form large taproots, roses have a network of fine feeder roots close to the soil’s surface. The most active roots are in the top 30 to 45cm of soil, where oxygen, water and nutrients are most available.
Are they surface roots?
Not exactly. Roses don’t produce “surface roots” like some trees (eg maples). But they do have many feeder roots near the upper soil layer.
This makes them sensitive to disturbance. Excessive digging or planting too close can damage these fine roots.
Treating roots at planting.
Soaking: Before planting, soak the roots in water to rehydrate them.
Spacing: Dig a wide planting hole so roots can spread out without bending or crowding.
Positioning: Make sure the bud union (the graft point) sits slightly below soil level. Backfill gently with amended (enriched) soil and firm it to remove air pockets. Water thoroughly.
Planting ground cover around roses.
This can be a good idea if the ground cover is chosen carefully. Ground covers help keep the soil cool, suppress weeds and reduce evaporation.
However, avoid aggressive spreaders that will compete heavily with the rose roots for water and nutrients. Always leave a clear circle (about 30cm) around the base of the rose to avoid crowding the crown.
Best ground covers to use.
The best ground covers are low growing, noncompetitive and complementary in appearance:
Creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum): Hardy, fragrant and attracts pollinators.
Alchemilla (Lady’s Mantle): soft foliage that pairs well with rose blooms.
Low growing catmint (Nepeta): drought tolerant, with lavender blue flowers.
Hardy geraniums (cranesbill): Spreads gently and flowers throughout the season.
Sweet alyssum (annual but self-seeds): Provides a carpet of flowers without competing much.
Avoid ivy, vinca or other invasive ground covers that can overwhelm the roses.
Bonemeal is good for roots
Bonemeal is an organic source of phosphorus which is important for supporting root growth. It is a slow-release fertiliser and need only be topped up every four months or so.
Add it to the soil at planting time directly into the planting hole when you are planting a new plant.
Mix it with the soil at the bottom of the planting hole where it will come in direct contact with the roots. A handful or two is recommended. (Possibly depending on the size of your hand.)
Sprinkle bonemeal around the base of an established plant, gentle working it into the soil surface. Make sure it penetrates the soil by watering it in.
When preparing new garden beds, add bonemeal to the soil along with organic matter before planting.
Mix bonemeal into the potting mix when preparing a container. A container is a confined space and plants will benefit from this source of slow-release fertiliser.
It helps root vegetables grow strong too.
• In the Garden is written by feature writer, garden enthusiast and former teacher Julia Smith, who has returned home to live in Chintsa East. The column aims to inform novice and accomplished gardeners on how to make the most of their green patches
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