It has rained.
We look forward to the day when we can water the garden without the neighbours complaining to the other neighbours when they see you attaching the hosepipe to the water source.
But you might be in for a terrible disappointment then, as when you spray the garden with water, you’ll watch as the soil’s surface rejects the moisture rather than allowing it to soak in.
The soil is seemingly repelling it. Why?
The problem is that the soil has become hydrophobic (water-fearing).
Instead of the soil soaking it up, it rejects it by creating little pools and small bead-like drops on the surface.
It appears that it cannot sink down into the soil to water the roots.
Why did this happen?
This occurs when a waxy, water-resistant coating around the soil particles is formed by soil fungi or decomposing matter. The effect is that it repels the water rather than absorbing it.
How can you fix hydrophobic soil?
Firstly, break up the soil’s crusty surface and loosen it to at least a spade’s depth.
Add organic matter such as old manure or compost and dig it in.
This changes its composition, allowing it to accept water so it can reach its roots to facilitate healthy growth.
Even if your soil is not hydrophobic it is a good idea to prepare the garden beds for new plants and existing ones by amending the soil.
Once done, water the soil deeply. Then reduce the risk of the soil drying out by laying down a covering of organic mulch.
Your first autumn chore now is to divide existing perennials — those which have flowered in spring or summer.
These perennials can now be divided and replanted, giving them time to settle before winter.
The cooler temperatures and more moist conditions of the season allow new roots to become established before winter.
The plants will “tell” you if they need dividing.
Those that have been in the same spot for two to four years have become overcrowded, show signs of stress and smaller flowers, and have overall less vigorous growth.
Only divide perennials such as Shasta daisies, the obedient plant, and Michaelmas daisies if they have become overcrowded and they do not flower well.
The long wispy stems of Gaura may be cut back now right down to the growth of its base.
It takes five years of growth in the garden for fleshy-rooted perennials such as agapanthus, day lilies and red-hot pokers before they need to be divided.
Clivias don’t like their roots to be disturbed and should only be divided every three to five years in late spring or early summer after flowering.
How to divide the plants
Lift the whole clump, split it into sections whose form usually indicates, and replant them immediately, making sure they are planted at the same depth as they were before they were divided.
Use a sharp knife or spade to cut through the sections.
Once the maintenance is done, the best part is going to the nursery and seeing which perennials they have for sale on the nursery floor.
Perennials are plants that live for more than two years. They die back then return every year on the same root system.
Cut down old growth when it occurs and then watch it revive when it is in season.
Here are some:
Daylilies: Mooiplaas Daylily Nursery has daylily bulbs on bulk special at the moment. I appreciate the way that the daylilies produce the most exquisite flowers popping up when you least expect it. Contact them on: admin@mooiplaasnursery.co.za
Rudbeckia has a raised central disc surrounded by colourful yellow/orangey centres with sunflower-like blooms. It has rough hairy stems and foliage. They bloom from summer until the end of autumn. They make good cut flowers. Take care not to overwater them. They can be planted in autumn or spring in full sun, in moist but well-drained soil.
Pentas lanceolata are fast-growing and are available in a variety of colours, including pink, red, mauve and white. The flowers are made up of clusters of tiny star-shaped flowers. Plant them in full sun to light shady spot. They have medium to light water usage. Ideal for subtropical gardens. Deadhead them for continuous flowering. Pollinators such as butterflies love them.
Salvias provide easy colour in the garden. They are the largest genus of plants in the sage family with just fewer than 1,000 species of shrubs, herbaceous perennials and annuals.
South Africa has 25 indigenous salvia species.
Salvia are waterwise, tough, easy to grow and need only to have their dead growth cut off to last into the next season.
Birds and other pollinators are attracted to them as they are a source of nectar and pollen.
Their colourful bracts can be red, salmon, deep purple, cerise and pale pink, powder blue or sapphire blue. All have different applications.
They are easy to grow and have a long flowering season. The soil should have good drainage. They thrive in full sun.
To help them into the next season be sure to cut off dead growth.
Statice (limonium perezii) are hardy perennials which are members of the plumbago family. They are salt tolerant and suited to coastal gardens. They need a well-drained soil in an open sun position.
They are best planted in late autumn or early winter. I have had them growing in a large round planter where they were happy for many years. They make good long lasting cut flowers.
When the stems become woody, prune them lightly to encourage bushy growth. Give the plant a heavy drenching of water every now and then. Young plants need regular watering in the first six months of their growth.
Evolvulus glomeratus is a favourite of mine as it has proven to be a worthy addition to the church garden in which I work.
When all the plants around them have almost succumbed to the drought they have gone on shining through the heat with their brilliant blue flowers.
It is a groundcover with low-growing evergreen slightly furry (makes it good for coastal gardens) foliage and trumpet-shaped flowers. Loves the full sun and is aptly called the Dwarf morning glory. Just cut it back when it gets untidy. I’d like to try growing the plant in a hanging basket as its trailing habit would be perfectly suited to this.
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